Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Guanacos and chocolate

We´ve arrived in Bariloche and it´s a very pretty little Swiss-seeming town in the Andes. Lots of shops and quite expensive, but very pleasant. It´s on a lake ringed by white-topped mountains and the air is cool and crisp, with some of the wind Patagonia is famous for.

Quite a difference from steamy Buenos Aires.

The trip here took about 18 hours, but fortunately they really know how to travel well by bus here. We had big seats, much like business class on an airplane (though it turns out that any incline in a seat is very different from a seat that reclines fully... ah well). They served us meals on little trays we balanced on our laps. We didn´t realize we needed to tell them ahead of time that we were vegetarian, so we ended up more or less eating bread and dulce de leche for three meals. I missed protein and vegetables, but it could certainly be worse. They even came around with champagne late at night.

Best part of the trip here: we saw guanacos! Many of them! Standing around holding their heads high, as they like to do. Might have seen some condors too, which looked like overly large vultures.

Upon arrival, we more or less collapsed into bed for ten hours. Lovely.

Yesterday, we hiked up to a small, beautiful lake at the base of jagged peaks. (We will post some photos but this is a highly in-demand computer and I need to be quick.) Suffice it to say that we hiked for about 8 hours and did, we figured, almost 15 miles. (This was not intentional; turns out they just tell you the one-way distance of hikes here, not round trip. Ah.) I have new shoes and now also have new blisters. Not so smart. Marty, on the other hand, ran into someone he knew at the top, as he tends to do in remote alpine locations.

Here´s one thing that´s really nice about Argentina: when you get back from your hike at 9, you can then go out to dinner at 10 and it´s no problem. How civilized.

Today we´re taking it easy, so perhaps we´ll wander off to try some of the chocolate this town is famous for. (It´s also famous for tourists taking pictures with St. Bernards carrying kegs of whisky. I think I can resist this, but who knows. I´m a sucker for big dopey dogs.)

4 comments:

  1. I am definitely way more jealous of this leg of your trip. It seems filled with fewer digestive hazards - but maybe not for you. After living in Texas for a couple years, I have learned to eat meat when it appears before me. Except beef. I can't.

    I'm sorry about your blisters, but the hike otherwise sounds wonderful. I can't wait for pictures.

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  2. And I thought the buses in Turkey were nice. Sounds like a lovely place!

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  3. I for one would love to see you two with a St. Bernard w/whisky between you. Perfect fit for Argentina, don't you think? I suspect you two get more exercise in one hike than we get in an average week! And all on a vegetarian diet.

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  4. The exercise we´ve gotten lately certainly makes a bracing contrast to our days of hot weather and sticky rice in Southeast Asia. Though we do miss the food there, it´s nice to have cool enough weather to get out and tromp around.
    Damn. I knew I should have gotten a picture with Olaf.

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